Bupyeong Market Kimchi Chigae

In the alleys off the main street of Nampo-dong in Busan, Bupyeong Market Signless Dwaeji Jjigae serves a single kimchi stew with no signboard outside. The pork, kimchi and flat Busan-style fish cake are cooked down together, and the dish comes with barley rice, lettuce and makjang for wrapping in lettuce leaves. There is no menu; you tell them how many people are eating and the food arrives, and payment is cash only. The seasoning is on the salty side.