Samteomaru is an old Korean restaurant near the April 19 National Cemetery in Gangbuk-gu, Seoul, serving yukgaejang and haejangguk. Its signature yukgaejang has a clear, light broth rather than the oily style. Outdoor tables overlook a valley, so diners eat to the sound of water. The yukgaejang is spicy, so those who cannot eat spicy food should choose another dish.