Phở bưng Hàng Trống is a second-floor home in a narrow alley off Hàng Trống in Hanoi, between souvenir shops, serving one dish: beef pho. The broth is clear, the beef is tender, and the bowl comes with quẩy; cilantro is included by default, so say so in advance if you do not want it. Tell them the number of people with your fingers and the bowls arrive without a menu, one per person. You eat sitting on bathhouse chairs or at a small table in the living room, and the indoor space has only fans, so it gets hot.