Sangnoksu is an old grill house in the alley in front of Sookmyung Women's University in Seoul, serving hwangjisal and charcoal-grilled pork. The hwangjisal is pork jowl rolled into rounds and frozen, then par-grilled over charcoal to take on the smoke, and it is eaten with bracken and bean sprouts grilled alongside. After six o'clock the dining room fills quickly, and reservations are accepted only for parties of four or more. The foil laid on the grill burns through quickly and the meat sticks to it.