Ritardando is a dining bar in the basement of an alley in Seongsu, Seoul, serving brunch alongside natural wine. Its signature dish, the ranch ragu bun, places ragu sauce, cheese, and romaine in a brioche bun and tops it with ranch sauce. Guests press a button at an unmarked entrance to open the door, and the open kitchen lets them watch the cooking. The lighting stays dim at lunch with a candle on each table, suiting quiet conversation and a meal with a glass of wine.