Mapo Gui Gui is an old Seoul restaurant near Cheonji Sikdang that serves grilled fish and jjukkumi samgyeopsal bokkeum. It grills mackerel, Spanish mackerel, Atka mackerel, and saury over charcoal, and stir-fries jjukkumi and samgyeopsal with onion, cabbage, and perilla leaf. Customers keep arriving around noon, and if you leave about half your rice with the jjukkumi samgyeopsal, they make it into bokkeum bap on request. There are about seven four-person tables.