Okonomiyaki Kiji

Kiji Honten in Umeda, Osaka, specialises in okonomiyaki and also serves yakisoba and monjayaki. The okonomiyaki keeps the cabbage crunchy with restrained seasoning, and the yakisoba is fried lightly crisp. Indoor seating is cramped, so waits run 30 to 40 minutes at busy times and up to about an hour on long ones. The food is seasoned on the sweet-and-salty side, which divides opinion.