Eunseong Hoejip sits inside Gwangjang Market and has sold only one dish, daegu maeuntang, since 1970. The broth is built with bean sprouts and freshwater shrimp, then filled with cod roe and milt. Stew arrives at the table almost immediately after seating, counted per person, and takeout is available. Seating is tight and the stove runs continuously, so the room stays hot, with weekend waits running from five minutes to over thirty.