Hallasan Ssuk Jjinppang in Jeju sells steamed buns made from rice flour and mugwort, closer to rice cakes in texture. They have a strong mugwort aroma, a not-too-sweet red bean filling, and a chewy bite. The shop opens early in the morning and closes around 6 to 7 p.m., and calling ahead to hold an order lets you pick it up as takeout without waiting. There is no parking, which makes stopping by car inconvenient.