Jeongdeunjip in Itaewon is a Korean barbecue restaurant that grills beef galbi and pork galbi. The pork galbi carries a strong straw-smoke aroma, the beef galbi a milder one, and the kimchi stew is served boiling in a pot. There is no wait list; guests line up, the meat is seared over a straw fire first, and staff grill it the rest of the way. Tables are close together, so two or three people per table works better.