Marushin Hanten is a Japanese-style Chinese restaurant in Kyoto, near the bus transfer point on the way to Ginkaku-ji. Its signature tenshinhan tops rice with a thick ankake sauce and fluffy egg, and the gyoza are dipped in vinegar with pepper or rayu soy sauce. The line can run long enough that arriving at 3 p.m. still means an hour's wait, though dishes come out quickly. Smoking is allowed inside, so sharing a table is part of the visit.