Umami, a Japanese restaurant, sits behind the Yongsan Post Office in Seoul and serves thick aged hoe and traditional Japanese dishes. It cuts large slices of yellowtail, tuna, croaker, and sea bass, and its sushi stands out for the vinegared fish and rice. Without a reservation there is no table, and staff explain how to eat each dish as it arrives. The hoe is cut so thick that it is hard to eat if your jaw or teeth are not in good shape.