Suzuya Shinjuku Honten is a shop in Kabukicho, Shinjuku, that has served tonkatsu and its tonkatsu ochazuke since it opened in 1954. The tonkatsu arrives on a hot plate; you eat it with rice first, then pour tea over the remaining tonkatsu and cabbage to finish as ochazuke, choosing from four sauces. Rice, cabbage, miso soup and pickles can be refilled, and window seats look down over the Shinjuku streets. The ochazuke is on the salty side and tastes of green tea poured over rice.