Golmok Sikdang

Golmok Sikdang is an old Korean restaurant deep in the alleys of Euljiro, serving cheonggukjang, dwaeji suyuk, and hongeo jjim. It flavors its dishes with house-made aged kimchi, doenjang mixed with dried pumpkin and persimmon, and a plum-extract cho-gochujang, and its aengseong makgeolli is available only here. The dining room has only three to six tables, and the owner cooks alone, so waits can be long when there is no seat. Anyone sensitive to the smell of hongeo will find it hard to eat here.